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Canyon De Chelly National Monument - Arizona

In 1863, while the War Between the States raged in the East, legendary"Indian fighter" Kit Carson led a brutal campaign against the Navajo of the Southwest, whose raiding parties were seen as a threat by the United States government. One Navajo stronghold was Canyon de Chelly (pronounced "d'SHAY," from a Spanish mispronunciation of the Navajo name for the area, tsegi), a colorful canyon near present-day Chinle, Arizona. Beginning in 1864, Carson, with the eager assistance of the Navajo's traditional enemies, marched into the beautiful, steep-walled canyon to destroy cornfields, hogans (circular, domed structures made of mud and logs), and orchards. Without food or shelter, the Navajo surrendered. Thousands of them were forced to march 300 miles eastward across New Mexico to a parched reservation where they were held as prisoners of war.

Throughout the nearly five years on the reservation at Fort Sumner, the Navajo people begged to be allowed to return to the land they considered"the heart of the world." Of those who survived the grueling "Long Walk," only half saw the day their people returned to the canyon in 1868. Slowly, the people rebuilt their lives. Today there are approximately 80 families living in Canyon de Chelly. You can see the plowed fields and homes scattered about the canyon floor from overlooks high above.

The national monument, which actually includes Canyon del Muerto, Monument Canyon, and Canyon de Chelly, has housed people for more than 1,500 years. Numerous pictographs, petroglyphs, and ruins tell the tales of the people who once made their homes here. The style of living has changed-from the circular pit houses of the Basket Makers to the cliff dwellings of the Anasazi and Pueblos to the hogans of the Navajo (who first came here in the 1700s)-but the regard for the cliffs as a spiritual place has always remained true.

Although its history is marred by incidents of massacre, forced relocation, and abuse, Canyon de Chelly's overall effect is a lasting sense of peace. Its beauty is subtler and more profound than that of other parks in the U.S., and its intricacies are entwined in the culture that calls it home. Highlights of the Canyon are Spider Rock, an 800-foot spire said to be the home of "Spider Woman," and White House Ruin, an ancient dwelling that allows visitors to understand how the ancients lived and thrived here.

 

 

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